STREET TRENDS


ZOOT SUIT

These runway adaptations are both from John Galliano's Spring 2002 collection. Although they are from the same collection, I think the fact that one is a pantsuit and one a dress suit shows the design behind the zoot suit style (specifically that of the jacket). They have large sleeves that come to a smaller size cuff, and similarly, the pants have large flowing fabric around the upper leg and taper at the hem. By simply looking at the shape of the zoot suit, one can see that they are particualrly fit for movement and dancing. This idea is interesting in that the zoot suit has largely been connected to jazz culture of the 30's and 40's.



TEDDY BOYS

The teddy boys look was a somewhat formal way to look rock and roll in Europe. They wore loose and long jackets, lossened shirts underneath, and bright colors underneath their tailored outfit. The second image is from the fall 2008 collection of House of Holland. Their look is an interesting adaptation of the teddy boys look, almost combining it with another street trend: punk. The third image is from the spring 2001 collection from Givenchy. This is quite a feminine version of the teddy boys look, as you can see by the color and the ruffles of the undershirt. However, the overall silhouette is quite reminiscent of the original trend.



BEATNIK

The two images that I chose for the runway adaptations take some key elements from the beatnik culture and have been put directly into these collections. The main looks behind the beatnik culture was to have a goatee, go to poetry readings, black, sunglasses, and have that overall sense of cool. The second image if from BCBG Max Azria's fall 2006 collection, and the hat that the model is wearing is very reminiscent of the beatnik culture. Similarly, in the third image, from Betsey Johnson's fall 2008 collection, the sunglasses paired with the hat are both very straight forward when representing the beatnik culture.



MOD

Mod culture is fairly difficult to point out in designs, because the idea was to be new, cool and modern. Because of this the styles behind the concept kept changing into different sub cultures. The two runway images that are shown are different takes from the spring 2004 collection of Roland Mouret. However, they both show the sleep, modern look behind the mod inspiration.



HIPPIE

The hippie culture is probably the most recognized out of all the street trends. Things like Woodstock and Summer of Love all came from the hippie movement. The idea behind the culture was to embrace sexuality, and drugs. The look that they wore was very free spirited and loving and that feeling is what is uaually transferred over to modern designs. The second image shown is from Chloe's spring 2008 collection. The lightweight fabrics and layers reflect the ideas behind the hippie movement. The third image, however, I think really shows that something from the hippie era can really be structured and still have the free loving spirit of its inspiration.



DISCO

Disco, like so many street trends, originated because of music. Its loud and vibrating sound was reflected in its similarly loud disco style. I assume that this is the reason disco fashion is one of the most popular costumes for Halloween! The two runway images shown are from the spring 2008 collection of Sue Stemp. These are both beautiful and yet obvious in their reflection of disco style.



PUNK

Punk has been influenced by many other looks in the past. Some examples. include mod, greasers, and glam rock. The original idea behind it was to look hard and intimidating. The images I chose for this are from the fall 2009 collection of Luella (the second image) as well as the punk princess herself: Vivienne Westwood's fall 2009 collection (the third image).



HIP HOP

Hip Hop is an extremely recognized culture presently, and particularly in the United States. When it began, it too was one street trend that was intertwined with a music phenomenon and has actually been credited to reducing inner city gang violence by replacing violence with dance or rap competitions. Because hip hop is so recognized today, it can be difficult to use in design. In my opinion, a designer needs to be able to separate themselves far enough from the idea that they can create their own look. The second image is a very obvious interpretation of hip hop fashion from the fall 2006 Lacoste collection, and the third image is a much more discreetly inspired look from Missoni's fall 2009 collection.

TORN LEGGINGS

I think torn leggings are a new trend that have been on the runway but haven't stuck quite yet. They aren't quite like wearing shredded jeans, and they definitely add a different style that you don't see in normal hosiery! The second image is from the fall 2008 collection from Alexander Wang. The third image is a pair of ripped leggings by LNA.



GEEK CHIC

The concept of geek chic is very straight forward- as it embraces the ideas behind simply being a geek! Glasses, t-shirts, and video games are all aspects that are added as embellishments to make a fashion look appear more geek chic. The second image that I have provided is from the spring 2009 Reyes collection. I personally think that the high chested overalls are particularly geeky chic. The third image is from the fall 2008 collection of Sinha-Stantic. This look is a little more edgy geek chic, so the inspiration itself is not as obvious.

Geneology of a Garment

Medieval

Here are some images from medieval times. Popularity of pointed shoes spread across Europe during the 14th century. The style was labeled the "poulaine" (meaning from Poland) and it was believed that the point of the toe proclaimed the social standing and the wealth of the wearer. During this time, heels were not worn. However, some women would wear platforms that lifted them nearly 2 feet off of the ground!

1. This first image is of a leather "poulaine".
Dutch, around 1450



2. These are Knights Gothic Sabatons.
South Germany, 1490




3. Here is an image of the velvet covered platforms with metal studs, lace, and braid.
Venetian, around 1600

17th Century

Here, you can see that although pointed toes were still pronounced, they were not nearly what they were in the 15th century. During this time it was very important for the wealthy and nobles to separate themselves by extravagant ornamentation. Heels were also worn to express their idle lifestyle.

1. Silk shoes.
Italian, 1640-1665



2. Red velvet mules with embroidery.
English, 1670

18th Century

French Court strongly influenced fashion during this time which added bows and ruffles tot he existing ornamentation of the 17th century. Both men and women of the upper classes wore heels until the end of the french revolution- when heels shrank or disappeared all together to suggest equality.

1. Silk shoes with embroidery
Italian, around 1720





2. Printed leather and silk shoe
English, around 1790-1800




19th Century
During this time, style was constantly changing and fashion became available to many more than the elite.The square toe became very popular around 1830 and lasted for 50 years. Boots also became popular. Because of technology improvements, shoes were more cheaply manufactured while they kept the decoration that was popular to this point. Heels also returned, slowly, but were again standard by the 1870's.

1. Embroidered square toe shoe.
French 1835-1860







2. Ankle boot
Italian, 1845 - 1855







20th Century
The first world war brought about many changes in the role of women and they began showing their legs as a part of a new silhouette. This made boots staple of women's wardrobe. Heels also regained popularity because of their ability to slim the leg and ankle. Becasue this was a century of extreme change and development, we have multiple styles to choose from that vary greatly.

1. Silk evening boots
French, 1914

2. Leather Platforms Oxfords
Spanish, around 1973

Here are a couple gowns from the Yves Saint Laurent collection at the De Young Museum here in San Francisco. They are good examples of draped garments in the mid to late 20th century.













Actress Keira Knightley poses for cameras in an obvious adaptation of the classically draped garment, the toga.
















Here is a very recent example of a draped garment from Lanvin's Pre-fall 2009 collection.
















To use Yves Saint Laurent once more, here is a picture of his popular "Le Smoking" suit that really brought a new light on women in men's clothing.















A tailored suit from Donna Karen's fall 2009 collection. Many critics applaud Karen for this collection claiming that she's gone back to her roots.















A tailored jacket from Prada's Pre-fall collection 2009.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

An Eskimo child needs to keep warm by wearing large amounts of fur and pelts. Although this is for the purpose of Environmental protection, this look has also influenced many designers.













DECORATION
Tattoos and piercings are a popular way to decorate ones body, and is used all over the world.









GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

As it was stated in our module, it is common for both men and women to wear pants, but women remain the only gender to wear skirts.













GROUP MEMBERSHIP

Goth and punk are both examples of how people dress to communicate group membership, but is has also always been common in times of violence like war and in this case, life as a part of a gang.













CEREMONIALISM

The wedding dress has to be one of the most recognized symbols of ceremony in the United States.














SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

The push-up bra serves no other purpose than sexual enhancement.